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Why use Jenn B Quilts?
How will you work with me on my quilt?
You can be as involved as you like! I’ll guide you through the design decisions or, if you prefer, you can trust me to use my expertise to bring your quilt to life.What’s included in the pricing?
Thread and a fresh needle are always included in my square-inch price—every quilt gets the best possible care.What size quilts can you handle?
No quilt is too big! My large Gammill longarm and 14-foot table allow me to quilt quilts of any size with ease and precision.Why choose Jenn B Quilts?
You’ll benefit from top-notch customer service and my dedication to enhancing your piecing and colors while making the process smooth, stress-free, and enjoyable. -
I've never used a longarmer before. What's the process?
Review the FAQs – This has lots of helpful info to get your quilt ready.
Book Your Quilt – Fill out the “Book a Quilt” form. I’ll email you with my mailing address (or a drop-off time if you’re local) and confirm any details.
Prep Your Quilt – Follow the Quilt Prep instructions, but don’t baste it! Longarm quilting doesn’t require it—hooray!
Sending Your Quilt – Once I receive it, your quilt enters my work queue, and you’ll get a text or email confirming it arrived safely.
Completion & Return – When your quilt is finished, I’ll send an invoice. You can pay online with card, or with cash/check if you’re in person. Once paid, I’ll return your quilt via USPS Priority Mail or UPS, whichever is most cost-effective, and email you the tracking number. Local customers can arrange a pick-up time instead.
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I'm not really seeing a design I like.
No problem! I want you to be excited about your pantograph design. If you find a design elsewhere, I’m happy to split the cost with you and purchase it for your quilt.
Some popular sources for edge-to-edge (E2E) pantograph designs:
I can also customize the size of the design to suit your quilt:
Make it small and dense for a detailed look
Make it larger and looser for a drapey effect
If you’re unsure, no worries—I’ll scale the design to perfectly match your quilt. Just let me know your preference on the Book a Quilt form.
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What will this all cost?
Most of my pantographs are 3 cents per square inch. I have a few quick and loose pantos priced at 2.5 cents, indicated by an asterisk. My thread costs, a new needle, and design advice are included in the price per inch.
For example, if your quilt is 60 x 80, it will cost $144.
60 x 80= 4800
4800 x .03= 144
There will also be shipping costs (for non-locals) added to your invoice.
There is a minimum $35 charge for any quilt you submit.
I am required by the state of Washington to charge sales tax to WA state residents.
Batting charges are separate. See Batting FAQ.
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Do you accept mailed in quilts?
Absolutely! Even if you’re not local to Washington State, I’d love to work with you. After you Book a Quilt, I’ll email you to confirm details and provide my mailing address.
I understand that sending your quilt can feel a little nerve-wracking. Rest assured, I treat every quilt as if it were my own.
When I return your quilt, it’s carefully packaged:
Placed in a plastic (compostable!) bag
Secured inside a box
Includes an extra mailing label so your quilt always has its address clearly attached
Your quilt’s safety and care are my top priority!
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How do I prep my quilt for the best results?
Proper prep helps ensure your quilt comes back beautiful and flat. Here’s what to do:
Press – Press your quilt top and backing so they’re tidy and ready to load. Some wrinkles may appear during shipping, but most will smooth out when loaded on the frame.
Square – Square up your backing so it can be loaded evenly. I pin the straight edge to the frame’s leaders. If the backing isn’t square, it may pucker or pull to one side. Tip: Wide backs are often cut unevenly—ripping the cut edge gives a straight, on-grain edge. Measure afterward to ensure there’s enough fabric for your quilt.
Straighten Up – If you seamed your backing using the selvedge edge, trim it off (some shrink differently than the fabric). Top and bottom selvedges can remain—they provide a straight edge for attaching to the frame. Make sure all edges are straight across.
Do a Once-Over – Clip stray threads and raveling fabrics to prevent dark threads from showing through your quilt top. Loose threads won’t affect quilting quality, but tidying up helps. Check for any loose or open seams.
Mark the Top – If your quilt top or backing has a directional “top,” mark it with painter’s or masking tape so I know how to load it correctly.
Please don’t skip quilt prep! Proper preparation makes a big difference in the final result.
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Backing Requirements
To load your quilt properly, the backing needs at least 4” extra on each side.
Example: For a 60” x 80” quilt, the backing should be at least 68” x 88”.
Important tips:
Measure carefully—and measure again! For larger quilts, check several points across the width and length.
Rip wide backs to ensure a straight, on-grain edge.
Horizontal seams work best. Try to avoid seams in multiple directions, as this can make even tension tricky.
The backing can be larger, but not smaller. Too small and I can’t secure it properly, which may damage my machine.
If the backing is too small, I may:
Return it to you to fix (this can delay your quilt and add shipping costs), or
Add extra fabric myself for an additional $50.
Tip: Accurate measuring now ensures a smooth, professional finish later—so take your time!
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Batting Cost
How does the pricing work out? The batting is in a 93” roll. I charge $0.38 per linear inch for the 80/20 (cotton/poly), $0.40 per linear inch for the 100% cotton, and $0.52 for the wool. Here is an example using a 60 x 80 quilt. I’ll cut 66” of batting (as I need a few inches on either side to attach to the frame).
80/20 blend: 66” x $0.38 a linear inch = $25.08
100% cotton: 66” x $0.40 a linear inch = $26.40
100% wool: 66” x $0.52 a linear inch = $34.42
By purchasing batting from me you’ll also save on shipping costs of getting the batting from your house to mine.
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I don't have batting yet and I'm not sure which to use.
No worries! I stock several high-quality options from Quilter’s Dream, a brand I trust and love. Once I tried it, I never looked back!
Available Batting Options:
Quilter’s Dream 100% Cotton –
Perfect for warm weather or lighter quilts. It breathes well, shrinks slightly for that cozy, crinkly look, and gives the flattest (least puffy) finish.Quilter’s Dream 80/20 Cotton-Poly Blend –
A great all-purpose choice. The small amount of polyester adds a bit of loft, reduces wrinkles, and increases durability while still staying soft and washable. If you’re worried about shrinkage, this is a great option.Quilter’s Dream Wool –
Light, lofty, and comfortable year-round. It naturally wicks away moisture and provides warmth without weight. It’s machine washable on gentle, using cold water and low heat.Want a thicker quilt?
Just note on your booking form that you’d like two layers of batting for extra loft and weight.Looking for something different?
If you’d like another Quilter’s Dream product—like their bamboo blend or eco-friendly Green batting (made from recycled bottles)—I can order it and have it shipped straight to me for your project. -
I have material for a top, do you make it?
At this time I do not take commission quilts. I only do the final longarm quilting process which is the actual stitching of the three layers- the top, batting, and backing- together. Please check with your local quilt/fabric shop as they usually keep a list of makers who will take your fabric or t-shirts and make the top for you.
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What is your timeframe?
I know waiting for your quilt is the hard part. My current turnaround is 7–8 weeks, though this can fluctuate — please reach out if you have a specific timeline. I take care to give each quilt the attention it deserves to ensure the best possible results.
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Do you accept minky backing?
Minky can be a wonderful, cuddly addition to a quilt. I do accept minky backing — please note two important handling points:
Stretch: Minky has one direction that’s noticeably stretchier. I need to load that stretch horizontally on the frame to control distortion during quilting.
Fiber transfer: Minky fibers can pull through to the quilt top while stitching. If the minky color contrasts strongly with the top, those pulled fibers can be visually noticeable.

